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Nobody is ready for Rome. You think you are. You have seen the photographs. You have watched the films. You have heard people describe it — the Colosseum, the fountains, the pasta, the golden light that falls across everything in the late afternoon like the city itself is on fire from the inside. You think you have a picture of what it is going to be. And then you land. And then you step outside. And then Rome looks at you the way Rome has been looking at visitors for two thousand seven hundred years — with a calm, absolute confidence that it is unlike anything you have ever encountered and that nothing you brought with you has prepared you for it. This is not a city. It is a living museum that forgot to put up the velvet ropes. It is a place where you turn a corner looking for a coffee and find yourself standing in front of a wall that was built before the birth of Christ. Where the cobblestones under your feet have been walked on by emperors and gladiators and saints and artists and ...